Wednesday, February 10, 2010

David Codrea catches ATF playing "Where's Waldo?"

Following the latest Fifth Floor bathroom rumor yet befuddled by a multiplicity of suspicious characters, ATF Field Agent Garland Gumption (center left with garbage bag) patrols an unnamed Florida beach far from the DC snowdrifts in his undercover disguise looking for "Waldo," the elusive agency snitch who's been ratting out the Chief Counsel's Office lately. Gumption has been told to be on the lookout for "the guy with the whistle." (The lifeguard has already been hauled off for interrogation on the orders of James P. "Little Jimmy" Vann, on the theory that they are looking for a "whistleblower.")

Check this out:




Go here for David's analysis and commentary.

Patriotic informant "Waldo" hides in plain sight.

Praxis: M-14 Magazines.

M14 Magazines

This just in from Irregular Steven L:

Mike,

Do you have any recommendations on M1A magazines? I inherited 7 mags with my M1A and 5 of them cause malfunctions such as failure to feed, double feed, failure to eject, etc. and only two perform flawlessly. They are all in pretty good shape but none of them are original Springfield mags. Are there any followers made that I can swap out with the metal ones that are currently in there? I just bought a new Wolf spring and I am going to put it into one of the bad ones and see if that makes a difference. Any recommendations or guidance you can provide me would be greatly appreciated as I would hate to scrap 5 mags that are in good to almost brand new shape.

M1956 H-harness for M-14.

P.S. Any recommendations on LBE specifically for the M1A. I have the old pistol belt with Y suspender setups and haven’t yet upgraded to one of those fancy vests. I haven’t really found anything out there since the rifle has mostly been out of service since early Vietnam. I know that they are using it again in AFG and I am hopeful that some new mag pouches will be developed soon. Perhaps there are some out there and I am just looking in the wrong place?

Thank you!

Steven L


As far as identifying given M-14 mags, here is the bible on the subject.

If any Irregulars have had experiences which may help Steven, please add them as comments to this post.

Mike
III

Praxis: Weapon Retention

This just in from SGT Vanderboegh.

"Check it out when you have the time, Just picked this up today from military.com."


Be sure and go to the link and watch the video clip.

-- Mike
III

Sneaky Weapon Retention When Fighting in Built Up Areas

February 4, 2010 by Jeff Anderson

You often have very little room to maneuver when you're fighting in built up areas like urban or suburban environments. Battlefields, defending against a home-invasion robbery and facing off against a violent urban attacker all place you at greater risk because your maneuvering space can be so restricted.

When you're fighting in built up areas, gaining access to a weapon is one of the most important survival principles. Urban areas should always provide plenty of improvised weapons, including nearby sticks, metal bars, bricks and other objects. Soldiers will probably already have their weapons with them while fighting. In built up areas, however, the confined spaces you're fighting in make it extremely easy to drop or even lose your weapon.

Tripping, falling, banging into a wall or encountering some other obstacle is easy when you're fighting in built up areas. You have a greater chance of losing your weapon when space is tight, but so does your opponent. Either one of you could drop your weapon during a close-quarters struggle. If that happens, your initial impulse will be to try to get it back. Doing this can be a mistake and actually get you killed. Here's why...

When fighting in built up areas, almost every fighter, especially one that lacks training, makes the mistake of focusing on the weapon rather than the true threat. The weapon can't harm you by itself, but your attacker can and he's your real threat. Here are some tips to follow if it looks like you'll be in a life-or-death struggle for a loose weapon, especially when your maneuvering room is restricted:

Weapons Tip # 1 for Fighting in Built Up Areas: Quit being concerned about the weapon and concentrate on your real enemy. Your weapon won't be able to harm you as long as it's still on the ground or the floor.

Weapons Tip # 2 for Fighting in Built Up Areas: Use your opponent's survival instincts as a weapon against him. Use the loose weapon as bait, because he'll go for it instinctively. You'll be able to target him more effectively while he's focusing on the weapon.

Weapons Tips # 3 for Fighting in Built Up Areas: Use everything you can fight with. Kick your assailant while he's trying to get the loose weapon. Pour on the hammerfist blows. Slam him with your knee. He'll never reach the weapon but you'll be able to overwhelm him while he's trying.

Weapons Tip # 4 for Fighting in Built Up Areas: When your enemy is on the defensive you'll be able to get the weapon yourself. Then, either let him escape or finish him off if legally justified.

The hazards you face might be different when you're fighting in built up areas. Think outside the box with your self-defense training and the environment you usually train in.

More from Jeff at:
- www.CloseQuartersCombat.com
- www.AdvancedMassBuilding.com
- www.OptimumAnabolics.com
- www.CombatTheFat.com


Jeff Anderson is a 10 year veteran of the U.S. Army, a Master Fitness Trainer, and Master Instructor of Close Quarters Combat self defense. A full time fitness and self defense author, Jeff has trained thousands of men and women in the practical application of advanced military fitness methods as well as close combat tactics for "real life" self defense.

Praxis: M-16/M-4 Magazines

My sincere thanks to Pete at WRSA for drawing my attention to this.

I will have a longer post dealing with the larger issues raised in this monograph, but for now let me draw your attention to this snippet below on magazines. I have been slowly going over my cached mags, replacing black followers with green and swapping GI springs for Wolff. As I do, I inspect the mag bodies for problems, throwing any with dings, cracks or bulges into the trash along with the black followers. If I had the money, I would buy all P-Mags for the girls' M-4geries, but I don't, so I continue to upgrade the mags I have as I can afford it. Although, Midway (if I recall correctly) recently ran a sale on Type One's for $10 each if you bought ten. That's hard to beat.

Anyway, here is MAJ Ehrhart on the subject of magazines.

Mike
III

Standard USGI-issue M-16/M-4 magazine.


The magazine is an important part of the rifle. When originally designed by Eugene Stoner, the magazine was meant to be a lightweight, disposable item. Due to this concept, the magazine was made from aluminum and not designed to be durable. Soldiers soon learned that the magazine was not disposable and that care was required to keep the weapon reliable.

There are several things that soldiers can do to ensure their magazines work. The most important thing to do is to keep them clean. Just as sand can find its way into the rifle, it will find its way into the magazines. Magazines should frequently be disassembled and brushed clean. Pulling a cleaning rag through the body several times is adequate. Inspect the back of the feed lips to ensure they are not cracked and the lips have not spread apart. Load about 15 cartridges into the magazine and while holding it in one hand, smack the base of the magazine with the other. If several rounds pop out, either the feed lips are spread and/or the magazine has a weak spring. The entire magazine should be discarded. Soldiers can identify potential problems in magazines by numbering each magazine with a paint marker and noting any malfunctions caused when the magazine is used in the weapon.

MagPul P-Mag Type One magazines, with inspection window.

Several upgrades are available to increase the reliability of the issued magazines. A company called Magpul makes the best upgrades the author has used. Their original product consisted of a slip-on rubber ring for the bottom of the magazine. It made it easier to grasp your magazines from your ammunition pouches but also protected the delicate floor plate tabs, which have a tendency to break after extended use. They also designed a new, anti-tilt follower that greatly increases feeding reliability of the standard issue magazine. In 2007, the company came out with their own version of a magazine for the M16/M4 known as the PMAG. Constructed of resilient polymer, the magazine is nearly indestructible. (Figure 8) When the polymer cracks or breaks, it is easily recognizable, unlike with the standard issue magazines. These magazines represent the cutting edge of technology for making the rifle more reliable. Recently, the PMAG was assigned a national stock number, so units can now order these magazines through the supply system. 87 All combat arms units should consider replacing their standard issue magazines with the much more reliable PMAG.

P-Mag Type II, Solid Body.

Magpul PMAG NSN's are 1005015765159 for a black magazine and 1005015765164 for a black magazine with a narrow translucent window on both sides of the magazine with witness marks for 5, 15, and 25 rounds. -- Increasing Small Arms Lethality in Afghanistan: Taking Back the Infantry Half-Kilometer, MAJ Thomas P. Ehrhart, USA, pp. 43-44.

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

County Mounties used as Federal Butt Boys

County Sheriff Deputy in a certain county of a certain western state demonstrates the occupational hazards of federal bootlicking.

Folks,

I received this email from a reader in a western state. I have redacted the county and state because he doesn't wish to make this a public case just yet. However, I think this case needs to be highlighted. You will see why when you read below.

Mike
III

-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick (REDACTED)
To: GeorgeMason1776@aol.com
Sent: Mon, Feb 8, 2010 4:21 pm
Subject: Should I be concerned?

Hi Mike,

I have been hitting your site for well over a year, everyday basis now that I am retired, I'll be 60 in March.

I am a Threeper and my question to you is, do I have anything to worry about?

Here is what happened, I have been emailing the White House since O got elected and have been hammering them on their marxist czars, Pelosi, Reid, pretty much expressing my First Amendment rights.

I have never made any threats, just things like, "we the people are wolverines and if you don't stop your socialist move, we will rip your ball off" pretty funny I thought.

So last Friday, two REDACTED County Sheriffs show up at my home (south of REDACTED), they tell me the FBI said I made threats against Pelosi, I wrote "off with her head" a joke related to her being "Queen Nancy".

Well, I told them that I didn't think that was a threat, they told me to knock it off and next time they won't ring the doorbell and I could end up in Ft. Leavenworth.

So now I have a FBI folder on me, phone could be tapped, computer spying? is that true?

One question I have is, I am not concerned about the phone tap, that would be some boring eavesdropping.

Will I have a problem flying?, "no fly list" etc.

Really, if they came after me, what do they do to the real threats they receive , truly the morons I believe them to be.

Also the sheriffs asked me about guns I own, did I have an AR 15,( I was REAL vague in that area) who I lived with, (my wife).

I decided to be polite and not give them any grief, but I felt like telling them, they should check out the Oathkeepers.

These young cops are scary as I don't think they understand the CONSTITUTION and that is how all of this started.

Obama and his clowns will NOT destroy the CONSTITUTION and that is when I got involved doing my part fighting these marxists.

I guess I hit a raw nerve.

So, Mike, what is your expert advise on what I have described to you and do I have anything to concern myself with.

I am a law abiding tax paying citizen and feel my rights have been intruded upon, even though I started the emails, there is a First Amendment.

Thanks in advance, Mike for letting me know what grounds I stand on and should I be concerned with the feds. What can they do? I am writing you because no one I know has the knowledge in this that you do, and I need answers that will either put me at ease, or? and that's why your advise is needed.

Thanks again Mike.

Sincerely,
Patrick


My reaction to Patrick via email:

My first reaction would have been, "So, you're REDACTED County, right? What are you doing carrying the FBI's water for? If the FBI has a frigging question for me, why didn't they come themselves? Or are they trying to get you guys used to being their servile mokes?"

THEY (REDACTED County deputies) don't have the authority to enforce federal law. THEY don't know anything about you but what their FBI masters deigned to tell them. Are they used to taking cases on that basis? Since when did Eric Holder die and leave THEM in charge of First Amendment issues? The Constitution has a lot to say about the walls between local, state and federal law enforcement, and where each authority derives. REDACTED County doesn't take orders directly from the Imperial federals -- do they want to explain in court why they think they do? Do they REALLY want to explain why they're federal bootlickers in public in a case regarding political speech?

Then tell them, "You know, if you do ANYTHING in this case that blows back on you, the Fibbies will leave you simpletons hanging out to dry and will blame everything on you. Are you REALLY that stupid to risk THAT?"

You want protection? Get public and dare them to do damn all about it.

If county mounties came to anybody here in Alabama and did that they'd be laughed off the porch.

I'd LOVE to shine a light on these bastards.

Mike
III


Folks, if this happens to you, start by asking them for their AUTHORITY to ask you such questions and then (after they fumble around trying to answer that question and finally saying "because I said so"), SHUT UP, LAWYER UP, and dare them to pursue it. -- MBV

Finally, a short analysis of Ayn Rand that I agree with.

Here.

The Gatso Guerrillas of Great Britain



Gatso is a brand of speed measurement equipment, speed cameras, red-light cameras and road-access control/enforcement equipment of various types manufactured by the Dutch company GATSOmeter BV. The company's history started with a device invented by champion rally driver Maurice Gatsonides. He used the device to record his speeds as he drove through various curves and other road configurations, so that he could review his line and speed so as to optimise his performance in future races. The company was later formed to market the devices as police speed enforcement tools and remains largely a family concern with two Gatsonides among the five directors.

The company's products, particularly the "Gatsometer 24", have achieved such a high level of market penetration in certain European countries that the term "Gatso" has become synonymous with "speed camera" across a significant proportion of Europe. Historically, the company has had less success marketing its products in the USA . . . However, Gatsometer BV now has an American subsidiary, in the form of GATSO-USA, which now markets the company's products direct and competes with the other speed/red-light camera companies active in the North American market. . .

Speed cameras often become victims of vandalism from disapproving motorists who see them as government money making schemes. Vandalism includes ramming with vehicles, or more commonly burning with petrol filled rubber tyres. There have been dozens of documented cases of speed cameras being disabled across the UK. -- Wikipedia


My thanks to the multi-talented and inimitable Eric S. for forwarding this.

Enjoy.

Mike
III

"WOLVERINES!"

Monday, February 8, 2010

Restore the Constitution Open-Carry Rally -- 19 April 2010 -- Fort Hunt National Park, VA



Pete at WRSA beat me to this, but I can tell you that among the speakers will be Bob Wright and me. Get set for fire and brimstone from the dais.

Mike
III

Restore the Constitution Open-Carry Rally -- 4/19/10 -- Fort Hunt National Park, VA

Details here;

essentials are:

Mission Statement/ FAQ’s

Mission: The mission of the “Restore the Constitution” rally is that it be held at a firearms carry-legal location as close to DC as possible and that it attracts as many participants as possible in order to underscore the seriousness and urgency of a simple message:

Restore the Constitution!

See the planning/networking site Muster Outside DC 4-19-2010 for updates and planning discussions on possible locations.

UPDATE, 1-20-2010:

When: 9AM-5PM, April 19th, 2010 (Monday)

Where: Ft. Hunt National Park, Northern VA

What: “Restore the Constitution” rally/ Muster Outside D.C.

Details: Staging area will be Ft. Hunt National Park, located about 12 miles south of DC. Participants will gather there, and a speaking program will be provided. From there, participants will have the opportunity to travel in small convoys up to Gravelly Point Park so they can “step up to the edge.” Gravelly Point Park is right on the Potomac, about a mile from the National Mall in DC.

Scope: 4-19-10 rally at Gravelly Point Park, Virginia 10:30AM to 5 pm, although park hours are from 8 AM to dark. Gravelly Point is, based on research so far, the closest carry-legal location to DC, although Ft. Hunt will need to be the initial staging area and rendezvous point. Participants can arrive at Ft. Hunt as early as 9AM to get started, and the main speaking program will begin at 10AM, as the convoys begin going back and forth between Ft. Hunt and Gravelly Point.

Updates: Go here for the latest.

Speakers: Under final confirmation; you will want to be there to hear these speakers!

Contact: Email danieljalmond2004@gmail.com to volunteer or for more information.

"Paralysis": James P. "Little Jimmy" Vann sits at home and ponders his next career move. . .

"Federal government agencies will be closed on Monday as the U.S. capital continues to emerge from the snow." -- Reuters.




Meanwhile, the enterprising CPT Jonathan Tuttle of the Beltway Commandos uses the cover of the snowstorm to visit a fifth-floor snitch at home.



As long as corrupt lawyers rule the regime, the forces of constitutional restoration can never sleep.

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Gun show purchases: Web gear for newbies, black ops ammo and a Panzerfaust book.

Folks,

Sold a couple of First Edition Civil War books I had and turned the money into:

Chinese SKS Gunner's Aprons (aka "bras")

Bought 3 of these, average price $3.50 each. These will be modified for American sized bodies with the addition of longer shoulder straps and belly bands (with Fastex buckles) and the wooden fasteners removed and replaced with either Fastex buckles or snaps.

Roumanian magazine pouch (with two 30-rd mag pockets and two accessory pockets) for AK-47 or -74.

Bought 24 of these at average price of slightly over two bucks apiece. These will be fitted with D-rings on the backside belt loops so they can be worn on the belt or over the shoulder as a mag bandoleer.

Universal Strap, Type 1, General Purpose.

Bought 20 of these, average price $1.50 each. Can be used to sling buttpacks, musette bags, 2-guart USGI canteens, TA-1 & TA-312 field telephones, and, of course, Roumanian AK pouches.



Paid twenty dollars for one 64 round box (unmarked) of what the owner said was Canadian "Armor piercing" 9 mm ball. Headstamp indicated it was 1940 production (?!?). Intrigued, I went and bought a five dollar combination bore light/laser pointer/magnet and this is definitely steel core stuff. The story, however, gets more interesting from there.

Regarding the Canadian-made 7.92 x 57 ammunition with anonymous headstamps (caliber and date only), there are 9mm counterparts that were not made during WWII, although dated like the 7.9s - 40 thru 45. There is no reason to believe that these 7.9s were made during WWII either. . . It is too long a story to retell here, but it will suffice to say that this was a covert deal involving U.S. agencies. The ammunition went to various places. These were made in the late 40s and early 50s for a US Agency and along with the 9mm version were issued with captured German weapons. As John said, made in Canada. . . Dominion Arsenal made this ammunition. . . The '51 and '56 (headstamps) tend to supoport the "clandestine" theory of the MM headstamped 9mm and 7.92 rounds. . . I know that it is felt some were made as early as 1944, but I don't really agree with that. Everything physical about the rounds - sequence of magnetic bullets and black PA points to 1950s manufacture for all of them. . . There is however some controversy because this ammo also turned up in the 1960s as clandestine supplies to CIA backed insurgents in Central and South America. . . Further in 9mm the sequence of magnetic bullets is correct if you add about 10 years to the dates, and the black primer seal becomes correct, as in the 50s, Canadian 9mm had a black seal and not the purple seal they had in the 1940s.


The ammo I purchased has a black primer seal. Now ammunition that is made of mild steel cores is not, strictly speaking, "armor piercing," especially in the relatively puny 9mm. The decision by "The Company" to procure steel-core for guerrilla use is, however, understandable. Steel core, even mild steel core, will tear up steel car doors and thick auto glass better than lead core. The French Maquis found this out during their guerrilla war with the Germans and Vichy, and would prefer captured steel core ammo to air-dropped lead core. As the classic guerrilla tactic is the road ambush of enemy vehicles, it is perfectly understandable that the CIA would procure steel core in both 8mm and 9mm Luger with deliberately confusing head stamps.

So I have a piece of history, but I rather guess I will pack this up for Hannah's FEG Browning Hi-Power clone, just in case she has to deal with road-bound Nazis.

Mike
III

PS: Almost forgot. Also indulged my fascination with an easily-improvised anti-tank weapon:



I got a copy of Panzerfaust: And Other German Infantry Anti-Tank Weapons by Wolfgang Fleischer. Paid five bucks for it. ;-)

NRA cheese dicks at it again.

Cheese Dick:

1. A guy who is not only cheesey with the ladies, but is also an arrogant dick head. He almost definitely wears gel in his hair at all times and/or dresses in nice expensive clothes.

2. Smegma . . . a thick cheesy material that collects under the foreskin and on the head of the dick. Indicates a bath is urgently needed! ! !

3. A military term used by rank and file troops. Started in use during the Vietnam era and continued till the mid-late 90's. The term describes a person who at all cost to his fellow troops attempts to climb the rank ladder. A kiss ass' kiss ass. A brown nose that will sellout his brothers and throw anyone under the bus. -- Urban Dictionary.


New NRA officially-approved snack. Goes down smoothly when munched in between sips of the grape from the official NRA wine list.

Well, folks, the NRA cheese dicks are at it again. See this JPFO press release.

The NRA elbows its way into the McDonald Case

By Kirby Ferris
Jews for the Preservation of Firearms Ownership.


One wonders if NRA members should be proud of their organization’s apparent newfound fiduciary conservatism. The so-called “premier” gun rights organization has now managed to finagle its way into the spotlight after someone else’s sweat and money rented the hall, built the stage, and set up the sound system.

NRA lawyers are now second guessing pro-gun lawyer Alan Gura’s expertise. And this, after Gura masterminded and navigated the vitally crucial landmark Heller case to a victorious decision in favor of the Second Amendment.

The NRA’s leadership must have looked at each other and realized that (coming so close on the coat tails of Heller) McDonald actually had a good chance at victory. I can just hear them clinking their drinks in toast and chuckling: “Gura will likely win this one too. Let’s get on board now!”

All that might not be so bad, but look who the NRA has hired as their head counsel in this wedge into McDonald: Paul Clement, the very attorney who advocated against our gun rights in Heller!

That’s right, Clement led the federal government’s charge to protect the Washington D.C. ban on handgun ownership!

Here are some of Paul Clements espousals during Heller. These are from Clement’s oral arguments to SCOTUS and from the written brief filed in the case. He penned or uttered these little nuggets of liberty loving patriotism.

“In our view it makes a world of difference, Justice Ginsburg, because we certainly take the position, as we have since consistently since 2001, that the Federal firearm statutes can be defended as constitutional, and that would be consistent with this kind of intermediate scrutiny standard that we propose.”

Oh yeah?

Now take a look at this one:

“The Second Amendment talks about "the right to bear arms", not just "a right to bear arms". And that preexisting always coexisted with reasonable regulations of firearms.”

Don’t you love the word “reasonable”? It sound so…so reasonable! Unfortunately what Clement is talking about here is a ban on the possession of a handgun in your own home for your own self defense!

And here’s an intriguingly slippery one for you:

“Absolutely, Justice Ginsburg, and just... I mean, to give you a clear example, we would take the position that the kind of plastic guns or guns that are specifically designed to evade metal detectors that are prohibited by Federal law are not "arms" within the meaning of the Second Amendment and are not protected at all.”

Hmmm…. Very lawyerly. I’m not going to comment on that one. Just read it a couple of times for your own smell test.

And now a couple of tidbits from Paul Clement’s written brief in Heller:

"Given the unquestionable threat to public safety that unrestricted private firearm possession would entail, various categories of firearm-related regulations are permitted by the Second Amendment."

How does “shall not be infringed” somehow sneak past this guy’s obviously impressive intellect?

Some icing on the cake:

“Nothing in the Second Amendment, properly understood -- and certainly no principle necessary to decide this case — calls for invalidation of numerous federal laws regulating firearms.”

Oh boy…

Yes, friends, this is the man the NRA has hired to defend your gun rights in the unbelievably crucial McDonald vs. The City of Chicago case.

This is the same NRA that still believes the BATFE has a warm and fuzzy place in our lives. See: "NRA Letter"

This is also the same NRA that has not called for the completed destruction of “gun control” laws. And it’s the same NRA that does not appear to have a problem with Nazi “gun control” laws used as a basis for “The Gun Control Act of 1968”. See: this handbill and see also: the film "No Guns for Negroes".

In a recent JPFO alert article I speculated on what might knock McDonald off the rails. See: "Will Your Gun Rights Live or Die?" This present turn of events should certainly not deter our fears. JPFO is not alone in our concern with this NRA/Clement issue. See: this Cato @ Liberty article, (also archive copy here on JPFO).

Paul Clement is like a shark who just tried to bite our legs off. And now the NRA has crashed the pool party and tossed him in with us! Is it “hire a crook to catch a crook” logic? How can Clement’s oral arguments in the upcoming McDonald case possibly be all that effective? Those nine Justices (four of whom are obviously anti-gun Liberals) might truly wonder to themselves: “Hey! This guy was here about a year ago and argued the exact opposite of what we’re hearing now!”

Hey NRA, do you call that good legal strategy? And more importantly: Do you really want a McDonald victory?


OK, class, repeat after me: Never, ever give money to the No-balls Retreat Association. Give it to JPFO or GOA. Preferably both.

Mike
III

Irregular looking to join an Absolved Reading Circle in West Virgina.

Soldier's reading circle, Operation Iraqi Freedom.

Received this today:

Mike,

I'm looking to find someone/s more knowledgeable than I am to train with in north-central WV. Do you have any contacts in the area you can get me in contact with? I've shot Expert on the Army Qualification Test with Appleseed, but there's nothing like target selection/detection, stalking, land navigation, movement, etc. I have no military experience. Any help would be appreciated.

Keep your powder dry,

In Liberty,

--- Kevin P.


Israeli Defense Force reading circle.

Anyone else in his area of WV looking for a reading circle to join? Email me and I'll link you up.

Mike
III

Left at my table at the Birmingham gun show yesterday: CPT R.A. Bear's Business Card



My thanks to Eric S. for scanning this so I could post it.

It was proposed yesterday by a neutral third-party that I offer to rat out R.A. Bear to James P. "Little Jimmy" Vann for $10,000.00 and my choice of any weapon in the evidence vault at the Atlanta ATF field office. I would have to promise not to take it to Houston and sell it to criminals, like a former ASAC did in the infamous "Triple Trace Gun" case.

After considerable thought (lasting 2.25 seconds), I have elected not to become an ATF snitch.

Keep lookin', Little Jimmy.

Keep lookin'.

Mike
III

Praxis: Responses on Binoculars

SAC sends this picture with comment:



I may be a simple Hillbilly from Appalachia but it seems to me you can get 90% of the result with 10% of the cost – if you use your noodle... especially when it comes to weaponry and gear.

Binoculars, I like a medium sized pair that will give me a good field of view and not reflect light (or a little as possible).


These are Nikon 8x40 – very robust and have lasted 3 years without any problems.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/nikon-8x40-action-extreme-binoculars-7238.html

http://www.chuckhawks.com/binocular_basics.htm

Note: I take off my lower (Objective) lens caps but leave on the upper (Pupil) lens caps – which seem to gather dirt, gunk, and water.


The Trainer writes:

Prefered Optics: BUSHNELL H20 WATERPROOF BINOCULARS (8 X 25mm) - About $40. Small, waterproof, fog proof, rubber armored, and the magnification is just about right. Small enough for an external pouch on the LBE/LBV, or if wearing a LBV, slip inside one of the internal pockets. External pockets on a M-65 type jacket or BDU top also work well. When coupled with proper night vision adaptation skills, target acquisition is very, very good.


Bob S. from Wyoming sends:

On the binos, and at risk of telling you theory that you already know: The "night binoculars" term does not mean much, other than the application of light physics to the M1 eyeball. All else being equal in glass quality, 7x50s are real good for aiding what the eye can take in at night. 8x50 is less good. 10x50 not so good at all.

In smaller but still good sizes, 8x30s can get by for night use, but sacrifice compared to the smigen less powerful, bulkier, and heavier 7x50. A 6x30 bino of quality can get by for night use if saving weight is a great factor in choice. But for night use, a bino with a 50mm objective lens rules. Thus the Navy descriptor, "night binoculars."

I like Steiner binos for ruggedness and value. Currently I've been using their 8x30 Military for more than ten years. Steiner's 7x50 Commander, with its internal compass and a mil reticle etched on one lens, is a better night optic, has a couple of nice additional features, but has a fair amount of bulk for a dismounted person, and is heavy. Some like other brands which get into serious money. I can respect that, but I still like Steiners as a good bang for the buck. About $200 or a bit less for the 8x30 Military. Prices have not changed much over the past decade for this model.


Squid writes:

Dear Mike:

I enjoy the Praxis articles and am learning a lot from them.

WRT your binocular query, I used a pair identical to your binoculars on active
duty back in the '80's. That's a nice old pair.

I also have used the Steiner 8x30 Military/Marine binoculars. They have awesome
optics, like all the Steiner products. They are a bit pricey; I checked on the
Net and they can be had these days for $250.00. That's a bargain in a way.
Optics are a lot like champagne; more money equals better glasses, at least to
some extent, but to me after enough of a price increase the better taste/looks
just isn't worth it. The Zeiss binoculars, for example, have just never seemed
worth their astronomical price to me.

My current binoculars are 8x42 Leupold Wind River Mesa waterproofs. They have
awesome light gathering capabilities and so far have been completely waterproof,
as advertised, but I haven't had them in salt water surf either. I bought them
thinking that Leupold makes great rifle scopes, so their binoculars would
probably be pretty good too, and that has proven correct so far. A check shows
they can be had for $175.00.

The Achilles heel of modern binoculars is the case. The Steiner case was OK,
but not stellar, and the Leupold case is flimsy. There are a couple of tactical
cases on the market, some designed to be compatible with MOLLE gear, but I
confess to being a bit old-fashioned in this and other ways. I like the leather
cases that old binoculars came with, and I am likely to either have a custom one
made for my glasses, or to buy an old one. One of the dealers that provides
gear for World War II re-enactors has some old U.S. Marine cases, and, if my
glasses fit the cases, I may go that route.

Praxis: Responses on Combat Knives

SAC offers this picture and comments:



SAC offers this picture and comments:

Mike,

Here are the Tools I choose to use... they work for me and are good in my environment and operating envelope.

Knives – Mr. Pointy to you.

I have had dozens of knives – since I usually pay between $50 and $100 for knives I have never been let down... truly a wise man who said “Only the rich can afford to buy cheap stuff.” I cannot afford to keep buying stuff so I have finally found all the edged goodness that I will need.

I have very large hands – though I stand only 5'-10” at 220# with an honest 34” waist I have been blessed with great huge bones – edged weapons that fit me are rare... I would look until I found something that would suit me and then give it to my latest 1st Class Scout after I found the next thing that would work better for me... now I am having to buy knives for my Scouts for I am keeping what I have.

What I have... My Helle Lapplander – Available from Dryad Bows out of Texas. This knife fits my hand – it was meant for me... and I use it 90% of the time in the field – I would use it as a combat knife to as did the Finns in WWII... can't argue with a 40 to 1 kill ratio.

http://www.dryadbows.com/helleknives/KNIVES/images/Knives_large/70_Lappland.jpg

Cold Steel Vietnam Tomahawk – with the silly stock handle replaced with an old sledgehammer handle - hickory... pinned in place with two (2) wedges and soaked in linseed oil for about two weeks... 20” handle works better for me – especially since I am not foolish enough to throw away a weapon that is useful. The stock (13”) handle is way too short IMNSHO...

http://www.coldsteel.com/vito.html

I am a fan of the weapon-not-seen is the best one to use. So my fighting knives tend to be folders... I gifted (to my last Eagle Scout) my Gerber Mark II after I got my Ti-lite 6” folder.

It easily fits into my jeans pocket.

http://www.coldsteel.com/tilite.html

CRKT M-16 is a nice small utility knife... that opens like a charm and has a double locking mechanism... this is in the nature of sgian duhb and very useful... see “Quigley Down Under” for how this works.

http://www.crkt.com/M16-01-EDC-ZytelHandle-AutoLAWKS-Razor-Sharp-Edge

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sgian_dubh

I also have two multi-tools and a Swiss army pocket knife (note: mine has a locking blade and a locking screwdriver... how cool is that). One of these tools is in either the pocket of my Flight Jacket, or my pants pocket.

http://www.gerber-tools.com/

http://www.multitool.org/miscellaneous-tools/large-tools/schrade-st1.html

http://www.swissarmy.com/MultiTools/Pages/Product.aspx?category=lockblades&product=54865&

One last little Item at top right of below pic is a 25 year old Remington hunting knife – and it has served me well – with this full plate I am set for edged weapons.

Note: the little took kit just by my Helle's sheath... magnesium block, hot spark, whetstone, P38, and sundries.

Bona na Croin - SCOTT!


GV provides this picture and comments:



My favorite trouble knife is the Cold Steel Recon Tanto. Good combat virtues and will still perform those mundane chores. Heavy blade like a tractor leaf spring, and the time-tested tanto chisel point to defeat thick clothing. Betcha can't bust this! Can be found as low as $60. M-9 is for size comparison.

Hope this helps, but it's only my opinion...and we know about opinions.


Bob S. from Wyoming writes:

On knives for militia use: A knife is certainly a very personal choice. For use by the unorganized militia, choice and type are important to only the end user. If personal gear choices of a militia member are in play with your question, then the type of knife and way of carry will tell people what sort of person that they are dealing with. Showy blades and impractical carries might be called "clues."

I have no knowlege of the XSF-1. I've steered clear of dagger designs because they are less multi-use than a Bowie-type blade. The USMC Kabar has served for about three generations, mine I bought new in the late 70s. It has worked, but there are many better knives of its size. I sort of like EK knives, have a Bowie design from them. They are quality knives at a middle price point, the company has been making knives specifically for GIs since '41 or '42. At the higher end of pricing, it is hard to beat a Randal #1 for feel, although an EK design is better for uses when the strength of the knife might come into play.

For the one and only fixed blade for an unorganized milita person, it would be a mistake to forget the $20 Indian Kukri with a personal pocket knife (perhaps the USGI four-blade Boy Scout type) and clip-on folder (maybe a CRTK M16 tanto-type) for backup. A Kukri can get a lot done re camp/field fortification chores, and some people have proven its worth as a chopper in combat. WW2 North African photos come to mind. I like my old bumper-steel made-in-India Kukri, it has done many chores in the twenty years I've had it, and is a good enough tool that it resides in a pocket sleeve of my truck's bug-out rucksack.


Qi Ji Guang writes:

You know I always wanted to see a piece posted about combat knives :D

That odd looking combat dagger looks pretty tough, but it is still that point which makes it look kind of hesitant to me. As a martial arts practioner, I had often been engaged to envision scenarios where a far more powerful opponent have complete leverage over you, and if you do have a knife, only a stabbing (thrusting) option can save your life.

When I was on the subway this morning, I overheard two testosterone-filled punk thugs bragging about how to sucker-punch and knock someone out, and one of them goes on to say that he has put "many nerds and a**holes in the dirt" before. Now, normally I would not even pay attention to this kind of testosterone filled bragfest (obviously to show off themselves on a crowded subway train), but then, these kind of street scum do exist, whose sole purpose in life is to injure or even kill others, and sucker punches are often the worse kind of attacks to face, I seriously gave a thought to combat knives for defense against such thuggery.

Guns are of little use when facing a sucker attack, since all of these attacks (many of them posted on Youtube), are at contact range, and by the time you do draw your gun and get leverage to de-safety and aim, and hopefully, fire your weapon, a determined thug would have landed a good enough punch to render you snoring on the ground. There are no magical amulets to defeating such a kind of vicious street attack that is becoming more popular nowadays, but a medium bladed combat knife would be one of the better options to have.

I own several M3 style WWII GI knives which I also use as multi-tools when camping or hiking, and they are one of the best combat designs available. The long grip space allows the knife to be wielded like a fist-exactly how you would respond to fist attacks. HOWEVER, sucker punches are different from "organized" fistfights in that there are no cool-down phase or reconciliatory phase, which most "organized" fights have. Sucker attacks are vicious, with the attacker often using most of his body weight to give the blow, and they can be fatal. The most vicious thing about a sucker punch is that you won't see one coming, that is why awareness is so important.

Awareness and keeping a distance is the most crucial thing here. This particular thug on this morning's train bragged about how he liked to snug up next to an unsuspecting student and comment about how he likes the subject too, and suddenly deliver a knockout blow. When you know that a stranger is up to no good, and there are many obvious clues, maintain at least an arm's length of distance from them, and it gives you the option of seeing something coming. Secondly, some of these thugs love to go in pairs or small groups, and when one of them is talking to you, the others will be trying to spread out to form a "net" around you.

When an attack does come, it usually happens in lightning-fast speeds. You will get a chance to counter only if you were able to maintain at least a lowest degree of awareness in the seconds before the attack, when the thugs are trying to analyze you.

When dealing with dangerous sucker attacks, one's instincts, if he gets time to counterattack, is to throw a punch back. HOWEVER, punches are extremely hard to focus properly, especially on a target who is trying to catch you by surprise, and is already moving and dodging. A punching move, reinforced with a cold steel blade in front of it, is another story.

The most common wisdom about knives is that no matter what you do to take away an opponent's blade or take him down, you will get cut and stabbed, and most likely, fatally. An M3 style fighting knife allows the blade to be held foward like a sword, for thrusting like a sword, or held in a backhand fashion, therefore, allowing each hand to be equipped with one. M3 style knives are also the most easy to deploy. I have tired fast-unsheathing techniques with both Gurkha kukris and curved Mongolian fighting daggers, but the straight bladed US Army fighting knife proves to be the most easy to deploy and use with telling effect.


Dr. Richard writes:

As for knives, I have several Cold Steel folding knives and one of their kukri fixed blade knives. All have performed very well and are very sharp right out of the box.


Walter offers these words:

The huge array of knives, fighting and otherwise, makes it easy –and hard to make a selection. Different knives are designed for different purposes.

Dirks and daggers i.e. Fairbairn Sykes its derivatives, for example are primarily stabbing instruments. The routine carry of a dagger or dirk, is, in many parts of the US a felony. Also, their usefulness for other purposes is quite limited.

Reducing the problem to its essence, first ask yourself what you want a particular knife for. Then find one of the style that fits that need. Then find one that fits your hand and physical attributes. If you have an emotional attachment to a K-Bar, by all means get one. But don’t expect it to be the ultimate knife. It isn’t. There is no such thing. Just like tools in your wrench drawer, different knives have different applications.

I have about 30 or so knives in my “tool drawer”. Do I need that many? Nope, but some of them were gifts, some were unwise purchases, some are specialty knives, some are suitable to carry when I wear a suit, another is my current “favorite” knife that I routinely carry clipped in my jeans pocket. I own the 1992 “knife of the year” a hand made folder that is too valuable as a collector’s item to use. On the other end of the scale, I routinely carry a Gerber Easy Out model 1119 folder with a skeletinized 3 ½ inch half serrated blade. It serves as my “carry” knife. It only cost about $30.00 and if I lose it or break it, no big loss, but it’s a very good all-around knife. It opens with one hand and is pretty strong for a folder. (Note that all folders are weak at the hinge…some more than others. Can I slash with it, you bet. Can I stab with it? Absolutely. Can I open a can with it? Yep. Can I cut rope or leather or canvass with it? Yes. Could I dress a game kill with it? Probably, but it’s not the most appropriate design for that. It’s an all-around knife that suits me. And that’s the point. I keep it with me, it’s not too big, not too heavy and not to small, In short, it suits me.

I’ve thought about the “one knife” I could do most with and I would have to say it’s my oldest knife, a fixed blade Buck model 118, a knife I got when I was 17. I carried it through Vietnam and still keep it close by. It isn’t too big, but it’s substantial it has a 4 ½ inch blade and does what I want it to do. It’s design is the classic light caping blade style. It can be used as a stabber as well as a slasher. It’s a solid knife that I would not hesitate to use in a knife fight.

Speaking of knife fights, I’ve seen a few. I saw a guy get sliced from shoulder to kidney with a box knife. His muscles retracted and I could count his ribs through the 15 inch wound. He was one hurtin’ fella. Another guy I saw get stuck was a wino in an alley. He got punched in the gut with a folder and ultimately died from peritonitis after he left the emergency room against the advice of the doctor. By the way, it was one simple stab wound to the gut.

In my own case, I got stabbed by a burglar inside a used car sales office. He’d broken a window, crawled through and was ransacking the place looking for cash. I want through the window after him and he met me just as my feet hit the floor. He tried to gut me with an upper cut. God was with me that night. I never saw the knife. His attempt only failed because his aim was off by a couple of inches. The knife missed my guts and caught me under the chin. The blade went through my chin behind my jaw bone and entered my mouth between my lower lip and gum. I never saw it; I didn’t even feel it at the time. I bled like a stuck pig…well, I was a cop, after all… The knife must have been a narrow bladed switchblade type knife because the wound was only about 3/3 inch wide.

So, if you feel like you need a tool for a knife fight, the knife you have will dictate what you will use.

Find one you like, adapt your fighting style to the knife, and practice that style. But don’t count on that alone. Practice unarmed defense against knife attacks. Know that anyone with a knife is potentially lethal. Kitchen knives are as deadly as a K-Bar. I’ve never seen a K-Bar used in a fight, but I wouldn’t want to be on the receiving end of such an attack. Though I have one, I find the K-Bar too heavy for my style of knife handling. While the mass or weight of a knife has bearing on it’s penetration ability, I personally prefer a slashing attack wherein the fighter uses several slashes to vulnerable areas, forearms, face and hands, thereby cutting tendons and causing blood flow. I think that a slash to the face is particularly effective because the face is full of nerves and blood vessels and will distract the opponent. But most of the people killed by knife are killed with stab wounds to the torso and with kitchen knives in “heat of the moment” family fights. And many a stab wound victim goes to the emergency room or coroner’s office with the blade broken off in their body.

If you think you’re going to get in a knife fight, get a shotgun and use it before your opponent gets within 21 feet. Otherwise, you’re in trouble.


Doc Burgess writes:

Dear Sir,

I read your great website regarding combat knives and other equipment. I am a retired physician and knifemaker. I served as a hospital corpsman with the 3rd Marine Division a long time ago. Our rifle was the M1 Garand, a piece that cannot be beat.

I have attached a few pictures of one of my knives, one that is currently in Iraq. I have many of my knives with our men in Iraq and Afghganistan including a knife I made for a scout with the 82 Airborne. The picture I attached shows a Lt. Col., USMC, heliocopter squadron commander. You will see his down bag that has my knife strapped to it. He stands beside his heliocopter.

154 CM stainless steel is the steel I use mostly. I heat treat the blade by taking it to 1,950 degrees F. and then quinch it. It is very brittle at that point. I then double temper it by holding the blade at 400 degrees F. for one hour, bring it back to room temperature and then re-temper it again at 400 degrees F. for an additional hour. This temper gives it a RC hardness of about 58. The blade is now tough, hard and not brittle. It will bend, but not break. All combat knives (as all knives) should be heat treated properly.

To see hundreds of photos of knives that I have made and sold please see them at my website: www.docburgessknives.com/gallery.shtml

Doc Burgess
Robert O. Burgess. M.D.
rburgess2@mindspring.com


JC offers these comments on knife restoration:

In regards to your request for praxis material on blades, I can share my experience restoring some nice equipment.

I bought an M8 bayonet at a gun show many years ago, sans tip. I also bought a flip out knife at another recent show and it was lacking anything resembling a sharp edge but had a good tip.

Through practice and persistence, I learned how to create an extremely sharp edge and re-point a broken blade. I remember it as steel, stone, steno (for paper, properly emery paper or 1000 grit polishing paper).

The steel file is used for heavy removal of unwanted blade to get the shape desired. I used an out and forward motion from tang to tip on the bayonet to put a new point that is very similar to the original. Doing this with the file in the right hand and the bayonet held in my left and pushing the file away from me was very easy and took about 10 minutes on each side to get where I wanted it.

Then I used a reverse motion with a wet stone. Wetting a stone is very important. Using a dry stone just allows the fine abrasive generated by the scraping motion to be lost. Water turns it into a paste which itself can allow for a nice polish. The stone gets most of the edge on the newly shaped blade and can take some time. Be patient and consistent once you get the angle right.

Finally, laying 1000 grit paper on my bench and then working the blade in a curving motion, starting with the tip on the paper and pushing the blade forward and the grip towards the bench wit the blade held over at a low angle for many repetitions on each edge and on both sides of each edge puts a mirror finish on the blade and brings the keen-ness of the edge near razor quality. Be careful with very sharp blades! :-)

A couple of buddies examined my work with some interest. The three tool approach is much quicker and efficient than trying to use one tool to do the whole job.

NEVER use a powered grinding wheel unless you are some kind of certified master. The potential for catastrophic damage and injury is too great. Saving a few minutes is not worth destroying a good blade or taking a trip to the ER.



Finally, there is this comment from Julian:

Hey -

Just got in from hospital sitting with my beloved; a quick thought on your knife praxis question.

Someone once asked Fairbairn about the seeming fragility of the original F/S SAS style dagger, on which the later Applegate/Fairbairn, Gerber Mk II and all others of that ilk eventually descended. His response was to the effect that Yanks had no finesse with a blade, and that his design was intended as a straight-in, thrusting, organ piercing blade, not a hacking, slashing 'combat' blade. More along the lines of an assassins' tool than a front lines combat piece.

Since most guys - for good or for ill - tended to use their 'ready at hand' knife for everyday chores about a thousand times more often than gutting Charlie, the KaBar was and I think to a great extent, still is, the perfect design, size and weight for combat carry. Yes, you can break the point if you really try; and if you leave the Mona Lisa out in your backyard in the rain, it will turn to a soggy sheet of crap... drive your classic Corvette through a carwash with the top removed and you'll get a rusting, short circuited swimming pool on wheels...anything can be abused or improperly used..... but for any reasonable use, the old USMC pattern, 7 inch parkerized blade, has enough curve and belly for slicing or skinning, enough heft and spine for hacking, enough point for getting through almost anything... that is why you often find men who still have one they or their Dads carried in Korea or Nam, and they have an almost 'obsessive' relationship with it. It ain't just a tool or a weapon, but a friend who was always there.

Only other blade I ever knew that had such loyal owners was the Ek. And I think that each of those legendary blades had a bit of the maker's soul imprinted on them, but I won't go gettin' all mystical and stuff.

These days, our local Alabama boys at Randall Adventure design and offer the various RAT knives, and they are nearly indestructible and are designed and proven in the field by people who rely on their blades for any situation that arises. They recently came out with a longer blade - a 6 or 7 inch - which would be perfect as a combat knife. They are every bit as good as Tops, but half the price. And no one offers a guarantee like theirs - guaranteed forever, no matter what, no matter where or how... if it breaks, you get a new blade. Period.

Remember, in my younger days, I made knives for a few years and learned what designs were really practical, rather than the "Oh, Look at ME, I'm a Rambo Secret Mission SOG SEAL Ranger Recon Mean Mofo, and this is my badass knife!"

To stop my endless rambling and go get a few hours shuteye before the new morning arrives - knives are very personal items, and sometimes a particular style or size or blade config, will 'speak' to a man, and that is his knife; but in real life, most of us cannot justify spending the 200 to 400 bucks for a custom blade that we are not likely to use for combat purposes... but we CAN justify spending 60 to 70 for a KaBar, maybe another 20 for a jump-worthy sheath by Blackhawk; or maybe a little more for a RAT. And if we really do ever get into that nasty, seriously mentally scarring 'knife to the hilt' phase of desperation, those blades will serve us as loyally and ferociously as anything else out there.

Me - I prefer to settle things from a few hundred yards away, from that clump of tall grass over yonder.

Take care - and please keep praying for my Lynn; It's been a long hard road and we aren't done yet.

God bless your whole fam.

- j -

Praxis: Responses on Multiple Magazine Holders


GV offers the picture above and this comment:

Though this is a different brand, the idea's the same. Here it is on my lefty AR. Makes weapon clumsy to carry and handle, and HEAVY. Good gear for gun-shop commandos who envision standing off hordes of bad guys from a static position. A pose-tool IMHO.


Dr. Richard offers this comment:

I am a huge fan of the Magpul magazine pull tabs. There was one in the upper right hand side of the Thor Defense picture. These are worth the cost and are available for both 5.56 AR-15 style magazines and .308 M1A magazines. The .308 size also works well for Saiga 12 gauge shotgun magazines. They do make it easier to grab a magazine and load it.

I am not a fan of the various schemes to tape or mechanically attach two magazines together. These are awkward and do not fit well with most web gear. These will slow you down, particularly when you need to fumble to put the used one back into a magazine pouch. If you really need a larger magazine, get one of the 100 round Beta Mags for AR-15s or M1As -- however these are heavy and really only useful for use in fixed defense positions.

Spend your money on good webgear and then practice, practice, and practice your reload / malfunction / transition to pistol drills. Load a bunch of magazines with 2-3 rounds and use them to practice your reloads. If you have practiced enough such that you have the right muscle memory, you do not need the mechanical attachments. Smooth is fast. Magpul Dynamics has two "Art of the Carbine" DVDs that do a good job demonstrating how to do these transitions and how to run drills that will make this second nature. If you get the opportunity take one of the Magpul Dynamics classes. I also highly recommend taking the two day weekend carbine and high threat contractor classes that Tom Perroni and Joe Trindal teach at Commonwealth Criminal Justice Academy http://commonwealthcriminaljusticeacademy.com/ - they are one of the best bargains for world class training.


Brock writes:

I tried a similar brand on my AK, but it seemed to throw the weight off kilter, so I went back to just changing 30 rounders, and it's about as fast if you have your extras on your side/front.

The Trainer writes:

Locking/Taping Mags together: BAD idea! The tried and true method of single magazines for designed loads (20 to 30 rounds per mag) ensures optimum performance in a bad situation. The additional weight of the loaded mag taped or locked onto the inserted mag could, depending on the free play of the magazine locking device, put just enough space between the bolt and top round in the inserted mag to cause a failure to feed, among other things…Believe it or not, you can learn/teach others to count rounds so they are pretty sure of how much remains in the mag. Add in the practice of loading one less round than full capacity to ensure the mag spring is not over-compressed when inserting a full mag into the well of a rifle with the bolt closed. These, coupled with the time-tested practice always replacing a partially loaded mag with a full one during any lull and then topping off the partial mag as circumstances allow is a lot more ‘sure fire’ (pun intended) than the practice of locking/taping mags together for the following reason: Psychologically, the shooter will tend not concern himself with fire discipline because of the false sense of security provided by having so many rounds at his disposal. Additionally, ‘murphy’s law’ will come into play, and that bottom mag’s feed lips will get bent, mud will get caked on top of the rounds, or something else will happen when the shooter least expects it. Sure, you can put a rubber cap on the bottom mag, but that negates the purpose of having two readily available mags in the first place. So why do it?

FWIW, folks who are seriously training need to keep it simple, keep it effective, and not fall into the trap of ‘reinventing the wheel’. Repetitive practice with the chose platform is what makes the shooter accurate, smooth, and fast.

Getting threepers to the necessary level of skill mastery is hard enough without adding 'gucci gear'.

Try herding cats....it's similar!


Bob S. from Wyoming sends:

On mag couplers: These have their use, but I don't belive I'll ever buy one. Guess I'm too small of a niche market, having to account to myself for everything dropped. Your comments on prone use, and about replacability of the gadgeted two mags lost, are in line with my thoughts. My opinion for a person without a logistical tail, is that it is better to train realistically for the fight that you don't want to have, rather than to buy a widget that addresses just a tiny bit of the Big Life without a logistical tail.

On the M1 Carbine mag dust covers: They are not so much of a bad thing to have and use in any circumstances. Especially if you have gone down the road of temptation and have put a stock pouch on the Carbine. That's a bad thing in and of itself, since it takes so much away from the handiness of the gun. But if you have done so, then use those dust covers on the mags in the stock pouch. The Carbine is a niche weapon, it serves best unadorned. Piling weight onto it (even though that was done in WW2) is not a smart idea. Put spare mags somewhere else: Alice M1956 small arms ammunition pouches, Sneaky Bags, pockets in clothing, bandoleers, etc. Any of these ammo carries frees up the gun to serve better in its intended role.


MG writes:

Mike,
When I was a squad leader in Iraq a lot of the guys were buying these mag
couplers and having issues with them. I actually found a cheaper and superior
way to solve most of their problems. We all sat down, ate the crackers out of
an MRE then folded the wrapper up. Then I had them electrical tape the wrapper
near the middle of the mags then tape the bottom half of the mags together,
keeping them perfectly aligned. When you perform a reload the mags split apart
just enough at the top half to clear the mag well. The best part is how much
space was saved. You didn't have to waste precious seconds to flip the mags
over or do anything funny and they'd fit just fine in a double mag pouch. I've
always said that electical tape is a grunt's best friend and these mags lasted a
whole deployment and worked far better than the guys who had spent money buying
couplers. I hope this explanation made sense. Keep up the good work.

Esto Perpetua,

M.G.

Friday, February 5, 2010

"I am Spartacus!"


Hey gang,

Remember this?

Well, James P. "Little Jimmy" Vann of the ATF Chief Counsel's Office is REALLY, REALLY interested in getting in touch with CPT Ramsey A. Bear. If you see CPT Bear in your A.O., be sure and remind him of that.

On a related note, just in case you wanted to drop him, oh, I don't know, a postcard or something showing local color (you know, like tourists buy), his address is:

James P. "Little Jimmy" Vann
Chief Counsel's Office, BATFE
99 New York Avenue, NE, Room 5N 540
Washington, DC 20226 USA

Be sure and tell him you wish he was there.

Mike
III

PS: Keep it clean.

Note to the ATF: Me and CPT R.A. Bear will be at the AGCA show in Birmingham tomorrow.

If the ATF had a "Ten Most Wanted" list like their big brothers in the FBI, CPT R.A. Bear would be at the top.

Just in case you wanted to try again to track down the elusive CPT Bear. You've been asking around -- in fact, just about anybody you can find who's under oath in an ATF case gets asked about R.A. Bear. Or is it "Behr?" "Bare" perhaps? Or maybe "Bayer?"

You missed him at Knob Creek in October. You missed him in Indianapolis at the Indy 1500 gun show in January. You missed him at the S.H.O.T. Show when he shook A.D. Melson's hand. You even missed him in Alaska this week. (That one will probably cost you big time.)

Slippery bastard, ain't he? Care to try again? I'll be at the table at the back of the hall underneath the Sipsey Street sign and the Nyberg Battle Flag. I'll even be there Sunday, too. As to when I'll chat with CPT Bear, well, you'll just have to be there all weekend, won't you?

Mike Vanderboegh
The alleged leader of a merry band of Three Percenters

Request for Praxis Reviews

There are a few items I've had praxis requests from other Irregulars on that I lack enough experience to speak intelligently on. Perhaps someone would like to pass on their experiences with the following. Kindly do not post them as comments here, but email me at GeorgeMason1776@aol.com and I will combine them into discrete praxi.



1. Binoculars. Years ago (decades, actually) I was given a pair of World War II U.S. Navy 7x50 "night binoculars" by a veteran of the War in the Pacific. They are marked "US NAVY BU SHIPS MARK 32 MOD. 7 237687-1943 ANCHOR OPTICAL CORPORATION NEW YORK, N.Y." These gather an incredible amount of light and probably represent the acme of American traditional optics. They have served me well over the years, being toted from militia FTXs to recon operations of neo-Nazi terrorist-wannabes in the 90s to college soccer games. Each eyepiece is individually focusable. Here's a closer look at a similar pair.

They are by modern tactical standards too heavy, too fragile and frankly a museum piece that I ought to retire to my personal collection of relics from campaigns past.

Can some Irregular (or two or three) send in their own experiences with modern tactical binoculars? Which are best? Which are the best trade-off between price and quality? Please deal with field tips for maintenance, how best to locate them on a LBV, etc.

USMC KaBar

2. Combat knives.

Early in my misspent youth I carried a Vietnam bring-back Gerber Mark I combat dagger in a rig under my coat. Later, I sold it for a ridiculously low price to a buddy and picked up a Mark II like this one.

Gerber Mark II

Now one of the problems with combat daggers is that you can beak the point off distressingly easy when you are using them. I discovered that one balmy afternoon back in the late 70s when I was working store security for Woolco on the south side of Columbus OH. (There's a question that you can date somebody with. Who here remembers Woolco?) I was attempting to persuade a shoplifter to cease pulling out of the parking lot by carving on the sidewall of his car's front tire when the Gerber's point broke off, leaving it and me in a cloud of dust as he sped away. (The story had a happy ending. His madly-deflating tire only got him ten blocks where he was picked up by CPD.)

Anyway, I had the point reground and sharpened, but I later came to favor the Marine KaBar for an all-purpose knife for militia FTXs and camping.

However, for Christmas, my son Matt got me one of these:

MOD Beshara XSF-1 Dagger

When I slid it out of the sheath, I thought, "Darn, the point's broken off." It isn't. Brent Beshara, a former Canadian special operations soldeir, designed it that way and the knife's partisans call it "the ultimate evolution of the combat dagger." It has a unique triple-edged point design eliminating the tip weakness found on traditional combat daggers while still providing great penetrating power.

It is precision machined from either tough A-2 tool steel (Diamond Black DLC coated) or solid 6 AL/4V titanium (matte bead blasted) -- I have the steel version. It has contoured handle slabs and an integral double guard for a positive grip when dry, although I want the Trainer to examine it to see how we might make the grip even more positive when in use (there is nothing slicker than blood on an unprepared knife grip). I must say that I am impressed by the design (although I doubt I'll be using it in extremis any time soon).

The edge as it came from the factory is dull and the techniques used to sharpen it are somewhat different than a standard blade. Lacking time, patience and expertise, I will probably just send it back to have a factory killing edge put on it.

I'd be interested to know what experiences folks have had with the XSF-1 in particular, but the praxis responses should cover combat knives for militia use in general.

Malcolm X, his carbine and two thirty-rounders taped together.

3. Thor Defense Multiple-Magazine Holder

Years ago, at the height of what I now call "my Benedict Arnold period," I used to carry a sawed-off M-2 carbine with two "jungle clips" as they were called taped together a la Malcolm X in the photo above. A real Symbionese Liberation Army kind of thing. Of course that's fine for robbing a bank, I suppose (not that I ever got around to robbing banks), but how do you get close to the ground with such a thing? Answer: you can't. The other problem is that you can't keep dirt out of the mouth of the upside down magazine, although the Army procured rubber M-1 Carbine magazine covers for that purpose.

Carbine magazine dust covers.

The problem is that such a dust cover (while certainly protecting the magazine and ammo) is cumbersome to use and thus anybody going into harms' way is going to remove it, losing it or discarding it deliberately.

American GI's have been taping magazines to achieve greater firepower positioned at the ready since at least WWII and the M-1 Carbine's 15 rounders. Of course the problem comes when you empty the second one and have to put the empty somewhere. GI's in a hurry would simply dump the lash-up and get two more from the supply sergeant -- not an option open to us poor militiafolk without a taxpayer funded logistical tail.

Still, the idea must have some continuing allure because the U.S. military is procuring these:

National Stock Number 1005-01-562-9455, the Thor Defense Multiple-Magazine Holder for M-16A2 Rifles and M-4 Carbines.

This item, a kit really, consists of an accessory clamp, a Magpul magazine pull tab, a clear dust cover and an ACU pouch big enough to accept the assembly when empty (although with the clamp sticking out on the sides and hanging up on the fabric it is problematic getting the assembly in and out of the pouch). Here is what it looks like assembled (although in this pic someone has added a superfluous Magpul on the second mag):



So, my question is: Are there any Irregulars out there having experiences with these things? If so, how do you rate them?

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Logistics: Polish 7.62x54R on strippers.



My thanks to Tod and other Irregulars for drawing my attention to this deal from Aim Surplus. The catalog description:

Polish 7.62x54R 300rds on Chargers 1950s Light Ball

Surplus Polish 7.62x54R ammunition. This ammunition has been stored well and is in the condition as pictured. Features a 147grn full bi-metal jacketed bullet, lacquered steel case, and corrosive berdan primer. Packed 5rds on a steel Mosin Nagant charger, 300rds to a sealed zinc can, and 600rds (2 cans) to a hinged/latched wooden crate. While supplies last.

Item Name Item # Each Qty
Polish 7.62x54R 300rds on Chargers 1950s Light Ball A76254P300 $89.95




This is an excellent deal. If had any spare bucks, I'd get some, but the next best thing is to draw you Irregulars' attention to it. My suggestion would be to take the strippers out of the Polish spam cans and pack them away in USGI M19A1 "thirty cal" cans and bandoleers. If you can find them, I like the Brit 5-pocket 5.56 NATO bandoleers for 7.62x54R on strippers which is what I put some of Hannah's ammo for her M44 in. Each pocket holds two clips, fifty rounds per bando and 4 bandos or 200 rounds per M19A1 can. If you order two spam cans from AIM they'll ship them in the same wooden crate the Pole's put them in. Then you can put two M19A1 cans back in the same crate, nesting side by side, for 400 rounds of ready-to-go combat ammo that can still be manhandled around easily if you have to displace your stash.

Mike
III

5 pocket Brit 5.56 NATO bandoleer with snap pockets